𝗣𝗶𝗹𝗴𝗿𝗶𝗺𝗮𝗴𝗲 𝘁𝗼 𝗧𝗵𝗲𝗸𝗰𝗵𝗲𝗻 𝗨𝗴𝘆𝗲𝗻𝗱𝗿𝗮 𝗟𝗵𝗮𝗸𝗵𝗮𝗻𝗴, 𝗛𝗮𝗲𝗯𝗲𝘀𝗮, 𝗪𝗮𝗻𝗴𝗱𝘂𝗲𝗽𝗵𝗼𝗱𝗿𝗮𝗻𝗴

I had the profound privilege of visiting Thekchen Ugyendra Lhakhang, a sacred monastery nestled in Haebesa, above the Basochu Hydropower Plant in Wangduephodrang. This spiritually potent site was founded by the highly revered Lama Je Choki Gyatsho, a figure of deep realization and visionary strength.

According to his sacred biography, Lama Je Choki Gyatsho was divinely inspired to establish the monastery after a significant dream. In that vision, a bound volume of scriptures emerged from a cliffside. As he opened it, he discovered a sacred text titled “Rigdzin Thukyi Nyingpo” (The Heart Essence of the Vidyadhara). Upon awakening, he vividly remembered the text’s title page—an unmistakable sign of spiritual instruction.

In connection with this dream, Lama Je Choki Gyatsho painted large images of Guru Rinpoche (Rigzin Chenpo Padma Dragpo) and Buddha Shakyamuni on a gently convex cliff as part of the Sa’i-lam-zhug (earth-taming rite). During the consecration of the wrathful Guru Rinpoche image, extraordinary auspicious signs occurred—a blaze from the smoke offering and a fine rain descending from a cloudless sky, affirming the sanctity of the event.

Today, these sacred images are still visible on the massive rock face, drawing deep reverence from pilgrims. What makes this site even more miraculous is that the image of Guru Rinpoche, once believed to have vanished over time, has reappeared as a self-arisen image (rangjung). Simultaneously, the image of Buddha Shakyamuni is said to be slowly re-emerging—a truly awe-inspiring phenomenon.

Local belief holds that these images manifested naturally and were not visible before, a mystery that enhances the sanctity of the site. The monastery is also commonly referred to as Jhana Goenpa.

Adding to its spiritual richness, 30 consonants (Selché Sumchu) are believed to be marked on the cliff, and above the monastery lies a meditation cave attributed to Guru Rinpoche. Inside, one can see outlines of the 12 animal signs (Lo-Khor Chuni) etched on the cave ceiling.

A short walk—about five minutes to the right of the monastery—leads to Guru Rinpoche’s Drupkhang (meditation site). It is believed that he meditated here and ascended into the sky, forming a mystical sky path. A protruding stone resembling a Phurba (ritual dagger) marks the entrance, and blessed water (Dutsi) flows from the site, considered a powerful sign of auspicious energy.

The local guardian deity of this place is Aum Zhechen Wangmo. In recent years, the people of Haebesa have formally handed over the monastery’s responsibility to the Zhung Dratshang. I’m proud to share that my nephew currently serves as the resident Lam, appointed by the Zhung Dratshang. A major renovation is underway to preserve and enhance the spiritual essence of this sacred site.

I was honored to be accompanied on this pilgrimage by the Lam and my niece. It was not only a memorable day but also a deeply spiritual journey—my first visit to a holy site in over two years. I felt a profound sense of reconnection, as though my traveling Guru Rinpoche had guided me once again to a place of true spiritual resonance.

This sacred site is a must-visit for all who seek genuine blessings and a powerful spiritual experience.

𝐂𝐡𝐨𝐞𝐭𝐞𝐧 𝐊𝐨𝐫𝐚: 𝐀 𝐒𝐚𝐜𝐫𝐞𝐝 𝐓𝐞𝐬𝐭𝐚𝐦𝐞𝐧𝐭 𝐨𝐟 𝐃𝐞𝐯𝐨𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐋𝐢𝐛𝐞𝐫𝐚𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧.

Nestled in the serene valley of Eastern Bhutan, along the gentle flow of the Kholong Chhu, stands one of the most revered spiritual monuments in the country—Choeten Kora. This sacred stupa, with its striking presence and deep spiritual significance, continues to draw pilgrims, scholars, and seekers from all walks of life. Embodying the essence of devotion, sacrifice, and protection, Choeten Kora is a living symbol of Bhutan’s unwavering faith and the enduring power of the Dharma.

According to local lore, the land where Choeten Kora now stands was once plagued by a malevolent spirit, causing great suffering to the people of Trashi Yangtse. Seeking liberation, the community turned to Lama Ngawang Loday, the Chief Abbot of Rigsum Gompa. In response, Lama Loday envisioned the construction of a stupa modeled after the sacred Jarung Khashor (Boudhanath Stupa) in Nepal, a monument known for its spiritual potency.

Together with Lama Zangpo of Tawang, Lama Loday undertook a pilgrimage to Nepal, where they created a replica of the stupa using a radish. Although the radish shrank during their return, distorting the original form, the inspiration remained undiminished.

The construction of Choeten Kora began in 1740 and took twelve years to complete, with the heartfelt support and voluntary labor of devotees from Trashi Yangtse, Trashigang, Kurtoe, Zhonggar, and Mön Tawang. In time, the completed stupa was consecrated by His Holiness Je Yonten Thaye, who invoked the blessings of Dechhog Pawo Chigpa, purifying the site and subduing all harmful influences.

One of the most profound legends associated with Choeten Kora tells of a 16-year-old girl from Dakpa Tsosum in Mon Tawang, believed to be an emanation of the wisdom dakini Yeshe Tsogyal. On the 15th day of the first lunar month, she offered herself in sacrifice by entering the dome of the stupa, dissolving into a body of rainbow light. Her act of ultimate devotion sanctified Choeten Kora forever, and continues to inspire generations of practitioners.

The architecture of Choeten Kora is filled with spiritual symbolism. Four large eyes, painted on each side of the stupa, represent the all-seeing wisdom of the Buddhas. One eye, directed toward the cliff, bears a wrathful expression—serving as a reminder of the stupa’s protective function and its role in guarding the sacred landscape.

The original stone pinnacle (sertog) of the stupa was later replaced by a gilded structure, under the guidance of Lama Shacha Gyalpo, the sixth abbot of Rigsum Goenpa. Legend holds that after fervent prayers, the massive stone pinnacle descended to the ground through the miraculous intervention of khandromas (dakinis). This sacred stone still rests beside the stupa, and devotees believe that circumambulating it holds equal merit to circling the stupa itself.

Each year, Choeten Kora becomes the focal point of two spiritually significant festivals:

• Dakpa Kora (15th day of the 1st lunar month): Commemorating the selfless sacrifice of the young dakini, this pilgrimage draws devotees from Arunachal Pradesh, India, particularly the Dakpa community.

• Drukpa Kora (30th day of the 1st lunar month): A time for Bhutanese pilgrims from Trashi Yangtse, Trashigang, Kurtoe, and surrounding regions to come together in a collective display of devotion and prayer.

These events are more than cultural celebrations—they are powerful acts of spiritual renewal, where vows are reaffirmed, karmic obscurations purified, and blessings received through heartfelt circumambulations.

To this day, Choeten Kora stands as a sacred sanctuary where the aspirations of past generations meet the devotion of the present. Every stone, every circumambulation, and every whispered prayer contributes to the living heritage of the site. It is not merely a destination—it is a profound opportunity to awaken the heart, accumulate merit, and receive the blessings of the enlightened ones.

May those who circle this sacred stupa with devotion have their prayers fulfilled, their minds awakened, and their hearts liberated.

𝐓𝐚𝐧𝐠 𝐌𝐞𝐛𝐚𝐫 𝐓𝐬𝐡𝐨 (མེ་འབར་མཚོ): 𝐓𝐡𝐞 𝐒𝐚𝐜𝐫𝐞𝐝 𝐁𝐮𝐫𝐧𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐋𝐚𝐤𝐞 𝐨𝐟 𝐁𝐡𝐮𝐭𝐚𝐧.

Cradled in the quiet heart of Tang Valley, Bumthang, lies a site of extraordinary spiritual legacy—Mebar Tsho, the Burning Lake. Far more than a tranquil pool along the Tang River, this revered place is etched into the soul of Bhutanese Buddhism. It marks the sacred beginning of Terton Pema Lingpa’s (གཏེར་སྟོན་པདྨ་གླིང་པ 1450-1521) divine mission as a treasure revealer, and continues to inspire devotion, wonder, and pilgrimage to this day.

𝗔 𝗦𝗮𝗰𝗿𝗲𝗱 𝗝𝗼𝘂𝗿𝗻𝗲𝘆 𝗙𝘂𝗹𝗳𝗶𝗹𝗹𝗲d

Visiting Mebar Tsho had long been a personal aspiration. When the opportunity finally came, I arrived to find the footpath temporarily closed for maintenance. Yet something deeper than circumstance called me onward—a quiet pull of devotion. Mindful not to disrupt the work underway, I made my way carefully to the site. There, surrounded by the gentle flow of the Tang River and the fluttering of prayer flags, I felt both humbled and uplifted.

𝗧𝗵𝗲 𝗙𝗹𝗮𝗺𝗲 𝗕𝗲𝗻𝗲𝗮𝘁𝗵 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗪𝗮𝘁𝗲𝗿𝘀

The sanctity of Mebar Tsho begins with an extraordinary tale. As a young blacksmith, Pema Lingpa received a divine vision instructing him to visit the Naringdra cliff on a full moon night with five companions. At the appointed time, he entered a deep meditative state and leapt into the lake’s depths.

What transpired beneath the surface would forever alter Bhutan’s spiritual landscape. Pema Lingpa encountered Yum Ekajati, the one-eyed wrathful protector goddess, who entrusted him with a sacred terma—a spiritual treasure—inscribed in the secret language of the Dakinis, known as Khandro Dayik. In that moment, the ordinary artisan was transformed into a tertön—destined to uncover hidden teachings for the benefit of all beings.

Yet his miracles invited doubt. The valley’s governor accused him of deception and demanded proof. In response, on the 15th day of the first autumn month in the Fire Monkey year (1476) Pema Lingpa stood before the lake and boldly proclaimed:

“𝙄𝙛 𝙄 𝙖𝙢 𝙩𝙝𝙚 𝙩𝙧𝙪𝙚 𝙝𝙚𝙖𝙧𝙩-𝙨𝙤𝙣 𝙤𝙛 𝙂𝙪𝙧𝙪 𝙍𝙞𝙣𝙥𝙤𝙘𝙝𝙚, 𝙄 𝙬𝙞𝙡𝙡 𝙧𝙚𝙩𝙪𝙧𝙣 𝙬𝙞𝙩𝙝 𝙖 𝙩𝙚𝙧𝙢𝙖 𝙖𝙣𝙙 𝙖 𝙗𝙪𝙩𝙩𝙚𝙧 𝙡𝙖𝙢𝙥 𝙨𝙩𝙞𝙡𝙡 𝙗𝙪𝙧𝙣𝙞𝙣𝙜. 𝙄𝙛 𝙣𝙤𝙩, 𝙢𝙖𝙮 𝙄 𝙥𝙚𝙧𝙞𝙨𝙝 𝙞𝙣 𝙩𝙝𝙚 𝙙𝙚𝙥𝙩𝙝𝙨.”

To the astonishment of the gathered crowd, he emerged moments later—treasure in hand, and the butter lamp still lit. This miraculous event consecrated the lake’s name: Mebar Tsho, “The Burning Lake.”

𝗣𝗶𝗹𝗴𝗿𝗶𝗺𝗮𝗴𝗲 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝗣𝗿𝗲𝘀𝗲𝗻𝗰𝗲

Unlike traditional lakes, Mebar Tsho is a deep, still basin carved by the river’s path through a narrow gorge. Its surrounding cliffs are adorned with layers of prayer flags that seem to breathe with the wind, whispering invocations skyward. The place exudes a sense of spiritual presence—palpable, mysterious, and profound.

During my visit, I paused to offer prayers and quietly observed the waters. As someone who invokes Yum Ekajati in daily practice, I felt deeply held by her protective embrace. Shapes emerged in the ripples—shells, thunderbolts, lotus patterns—like signs from the depths reminding me of hidden blessings.

Terton Pema Lingpa once described a submerged palace beneath the lake—a hidden monastery visible only to those with pure perception. The belief endures that beneath these waters lie sacred treasures guarded by Yum Ekajati, accessible only through the power of unwavering faith.

Further along the path, near a newly restored wooden bridge, I discovered three sacred rock carvings believed to have been etched by Terton Pema Lingpa himself: Buddha Shakyamuni, Guru Rinpoche, and the Terton. A kind caretaker offered Trulchu—blessed water—and pointed to the very spot where the terma had once been revealed.

𝗔 𝗟𝗶𝘃𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗧𝗲𝘀𝘁𝗮𝗺𝗲𝗻𝘁

Mebar Tsho is more than a landmark; it is a living embodiment of Bhutan’s sacred heritage. Here, faith is not only remembered—it is experienced. It is a place where the miraculous merges with the mundane, where rivers speak in symbols, and where fire once burned in the water.

To all devotees and spiritual travelers, I offer this humble encouragement: visit Mebar Tsho with a heart full of reverence. Walk gently, pray deeply, and you may find—not just a sacred lake—but a piece of yourself waiting to be revealed.

𝐓𝐚𝐦𝐳𝐡𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐌𝐨𝐧𝐚𝐬𝐭𝐞𝐫𝐲: 𝐀𝐭 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐇𝐞𝐚𝐫𝐭 𝐨𝐟 𝐁𝐡𝐮𝐭𝐚𝐧’𝐬 𝐒𝐩𝐢𝐫𝐢𝐭𝐮𝐚𝐥 𝐋𝐞𝐠𝐚𝐜𝐲

𝗔 𝗝𝗼𝘂𝗿𝗻𝗲𝘆 𝘁𝗼 𝗕𝘂𝗺𝘁𝗵𝗮𝗻𝗴

Nestled deep within the central highlands of Bhutan lies Bumthang, often referred to as the spiritual heart of the kingdom. With its pristine valleys, centuries-old temples, and mystical charm, Bumthang isn’t just a destination—it’s an experience. For spiritual seekers and history enthusiasts alike, it holds the promise of something more profound.

On this visit, my journey led me to Tamzhing Lhundrup Monastery, a place I had long heard about and deeply revered from afar. Founded in 1501 by the legendary Terton Pema Lingpa, Tamzhing is not only a historical treasure but a living spiritual center, rich in relics, mysteries, and blessings that transcend time.

As I arrived at the monastery, a sense of quiet reverence filled the air. Though modest in its architecture, the complex radiates spiritual energy. Prayer flags fluttered in the wind, sending prayers across the valley. The soft sound of young monks reciting scriptures in their classrooms only added to the beauty and serenity of the place.

I was finally at the doorstep of a sacred sanctuary that embodies centuries of devotion and spiritual practice—a monastery blessed by the presence and craftsmanship of one of Bhutan’s most revered spiritual masters, Terton Pema Lingpa.

𝗟𝗲𝗴𝗮𝗰𝘆 𝗼𝗳 𝗮 𝗧𝗿𝗲𝗮𝘀𝘂𝗿𝗲 𝗥𝗲𝘃𝗲𝗮𝗹𝗲𝗿

Terton Pema Lingpa, born in Bumthang in 1450, is revered as one of the greatest tertons (treasure revealers) in the Nyingma tradition of Tibetan Buddhism. Entrusted with discovering sacred teachings hidden by Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava) centuries earlier, Terton Pema Lingpa dedicated his life to spiritual awakening and cultural enrichment. His terma discoveries shaped the spiritual fabric of Bhutan and remain integral to Bhutanese identity.

Tamzhing Monastery was his seat—a place where he taught, revealed treasures, and crafted sacred art and architecture with his own hands.

𝗔 𝗦𝗵𝗿𝗶𝗻𝗲 𝗟𝗶𝗸𝗲 𝗡𝗼 𝗢𝘁𝗵𝗲𝗿: 𝗧𝗵𝗲 𝗚𝘂𝗿𝘂 𝗥𝗶𝗻𝗽𝗼𝗰𝗵𝗲 𝗦𝘁𝗮𝘁𝘂𝗲

At the heart of Tamzhing Monastery lies a shrine that holds one of Bhutan’s most extraordinary spiritual treasures: a unique statue of Guru Rinpoche, revered not only for its sacred presence but also for the miraculous story of its creation.

Housed in the main lhakhang (temple), this statue is considered one of the oldest surviving Guru Rinpoche statues in the world. While many ancient images in Tibet were destroyed during periods of unrest, Tamzhing's statue has endured, quietly preserved within the protective embrace of the Bumthang valley.

Unlike most relics, this statue is said to have been personally constructed by Terton Pema Lingpa himself. According to oral tradition, he worked on the statue diligently but retired for the night before completing it. In the quiet hours, Dakinis—enlightened female beings—descended from the sky and completed the statue. As the sun rose, they vanished, leaving the statue unfinished without a hat.

The next morning, Terton Pema Lingpa crafted a hat based on his own head, but due to his modest stature, the hat turned out too small for the statue. Today, visitors can still see the slightly undersized hat—a humble reminder of the master’s devotion.

Another remarkable feature is the statue’s gaze, which is lifted upward. It is believed that as the Dakinis flew away, the statue turned its gaze heavenward to follow them—a moment forever captured in its expression.

Crafted with spiritual intent and surrounded by Guru Rinpoche’s two consorts—Khandro Yeshey Tsogyal and Khandro Mandarava—and his eight manifestations, the statue is a complete spiritual mandala in form.

𝗔 𝗦𝗮𝗰𝗿𝗲𝗱 𝗕𝗹𝗲𝘀𝘀𝗶𝗻𝗴

We were then escorted upstairs, where the blessings continued. The upper floor forms a balcony around the assembly hall, and it is said that Terton Pema Lingpa built the low ceiling to match his own height. Surrounding the balcony are 100,000 ancient paintings of Sakyamuni Buddha.

In the upper chapel is a statue of Tsepame, the Buddha of Long Life, and a large collection of ceremonial masks used in sacred dances. Also housed here, though off-limits to visitors, is a statue of Terton Pema Lingpa said to have been fashioned by the master himself.

𝗧𝗵𝗲 𝗦𝗮𝗰𝗿𝗲𝗱 𝗥𝗲𝗹𝗶𝗰𝘀 𝗼𝗳 𝗧𝗮𝗺𝘇𝗵𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗠𝗼𝗻𝗮𝘀𝘁𝗲𝗿𝘆

We had the rare and profound opportunity to receive blessings from the Nangtens (sacred relics) preserved at this revered site. One of the most sacred items is a small, rectangular box carefully sealed by His Majesty the Fourth Druk Gyalpo. Inside are treasures revealed as terma by Terton Pema Lingpa:

· A cup used by Guru Rinpoche and Khandro Yeshey Tsogyal

· A 4-inch terma statue of Jetsun Dolma (Tara), revealed from Tang Mebar Tsho

· A nine-pronged dorje made by Damchen Dorje Lekpa, retrieved from Mebar Tsho

· A 6-inch statue of Avalokiteshvara with a Buddha at the crown, also revealed from Tang Mebar Tsho

· A statue of Zambala, retrieved from Tibet

· Sacred tummo practice scriptures handwritten by the 5th Thuksey Rinpoche

· An emerald once worn by Lhachen Pemasel

· A sandalwood seal of Guru Rinpoche

· A statue of Dusum Khyenpa, the 1st Karmapa, presented by the 7th Karmapa Chödrak Gyatso to Terton Pema Lingpa

· A five-pronged dorje that miraculously manifested in Terton Pema Lingpa’s hand, as seen in a dream

· A small bag woven with gold and silver thread, containing two norbu (wish-fulfilling jewels), revealed as terma.

Following the explanations of each sacred object, we received the blessings of the sealed box—an experience that left us spiritually uplifted and deeply humbled.

Terton Pema Lingpa was known for leaving treasures near their place of discovery. For example, items retrieved from Kourte were kept in Kurete, honoring the sacred energy of place and so on and so forth.

𝗢𝘁𝗵𝗲𝗿 𝗦𝗮𝗰𝗿𝗲𝗱 𝗧𝗲𝗿𝗺𝗮𝘀 𝗮𝘁 𝗧𝗮𝗺𝘇𝗵𝗶𝗻𝗴

Beyond the sealed box, we were able to view additional rare termas, including:

· A magnificent statue of Guru Tsokhor Sum, of unknown origin but immense spiritual value. Rinpoche himself sought blessings from it before long journeys

· Tandin Powa Chepa (a form of Hayagriva)

· A Guru Rinpoche statue carved from elephant ivory

· Statues of Tandin (Hayagriva) and Dorje Phamo (Vajravārāhī)

· A statue of Dorje Chang (Vajradhara)

· One of two sacred statues of Zambala (Namsey Ta Dang Gyal)

· Numerous other ancient statues and sacred thangkas

Each relic is a portal to Bhutan’s spiritual heritage, embodying the blessings and wisdom of enlightened masters.

𝗔 𝗖𝗵𝗮𝗶𝗻 𝗼𝗳 𝗙𝗮𝗶𝘁𝗵

Among the monastery's many sacred relics, a coal-black iron chain stood out which is kept at the ground floor. Believed to have been forged by Terton Pema Lingpa himself, it was worn during his retreats as a symbol of spiritual discipline.

Wearing this heavy chain for a round around the monastery, I felt its weight press against me—a humbling joy, a tangible link to a master of the Dharma.

𝗧𝗲𝗿𝘁𝗼𝗻 𝗣𝗲𝗺𝗮 𝗟𝗶𝗻𝗴𝗽𝗮’𝘀 𝗧𝗵𝗿𝗼𝗻𝗲

On the left side of the monastery stands the sacred throne of Terton Pema Lingpa, believed to have been miraculously built by Dakinis. As you circumambulate, you’ll notice numerous sacred imprints on the walls, each bearing its own story and significance. There is much to discover—far more than words can fully capture—so we leave it to your own exploration and experience.

𝗙𝗶𝗻𝗮𝗹 𝗥𝗲𝗳𝗹𝗲𝗰𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻𝘀

As I left Tamzhing Monastery, I carried more than the blessings of its relics. I carried a renewed sense of connection—to Bhutanese spirituality, to Terton Pema Lingpa’s enduring wisdom, and to a living tradition of devotion that continues to inspire.

Tamzhing is more than a sacred site. It is a journey into Bhutan’s soul—a place where faith, beauty, and legacy endure not just in stone and scripture, but in the hearts of those who walk its sacred grounds.

Now the seat of His Eminence Sungtrul Rinpoche, the current speech incarnation of Terton Pema Lingpa, Tamzhing remains a beacon of Bhutan’s spiritual heritage. I invite you to visit this sacred monastery and bask in its timeless blessings.

Finally Thank you Lopen Sonam Wangchuk, Caretaker of Tamzhing Monastery for his wonderful explanation.

𝐊𝐮𝐫𝐣𝐞𝐲 𝐋𝐡𝐚𝐤𝐡𝐚𝐧𝐠: 𝐓𝐡𝐞 𝐒𝐚𝐜𝐫𝐞𝐝 𝐈𝐦𝐩𝐫𝐢𝐧𝐭 𝐨𝐟 𝐋𝐢𝐛𝐞𝐫𝐚𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧

During my visit (2nd April) to Kurjey Lhakhang in Bumthang, I was struck by the profound sense of timeless sanctity that envelops the entire valley. Revered as one of Bhutan’s most sacred sites, Kurjey is not only the first spiritual foundation laid by Guru Rinpoche in Bumthang but also a living testament to his miraculous deeds. Its historical roots trace back to the Iron Tiger Year, 810 AD, when the site became the theatre of Guru Rinpoche’s subjugation of powerful local deities and the restoration of King Sindhu Raja’s life.

𝗛𝗶𝘀𝘁𝗼𝗿𝗶𝗰𝗮𝗹 𝗢𝗿𝗶𝗴𝗶𝗻𝘀: 𝗧𝗵𝗲 𝗖𝗼𝗻𝗳𝗹𝗶𝗰𝘁 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝗗𝗶𝘃𝗶𝗻𝗲 𝗜𝗻𝘁𝗲𝗿𝘃𝗲𝗻𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻

According to oral history, King Sindhu Raja of Bumthang had engaged in a dispute with a southern king named Naochhe or “Big Nose.” Before sending his son, Taklamebar, and the army into battle, Sindhu Raja fervently prayed to local deities for protection. Tragically, Taklamebar was slain, and the enraged king blamed the local protectors for the loss.

His anger turned especially toward Shelging Karpo, the chief local deity. In retaliation, he ordered the destruction of sacred sites, provoking Shelging Karpo to seize the king’s life force. The king grew severely ill, and despite numerous attempts by astrologers and healers, no cure could be found. One of his ministers then advised inviting Guru Padmasambhava, already renowned across the Himalayas for his spiritual prowess.

𝗔𝗿𝗿𝗶𝘃𝗮𝗹 𝗼𝗳 𝗚𝘂𝗿𝘂 𝗥𝗶𝗻𝗽𝗼𝗰𝗵𝗲 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗦𝘂𝗯𝗷𝘂𝗴𝗮𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻 𝗼𝗳 𝗦𝗵𝗲𝗹𝗴𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗞𝗮𝗿𝗽𝗼

Guru Rinpoche travelled from Nepal, entering Bhutan through Nabji-Korphu in Trongsa. Upon reaching Bumthang, he discovered the depth of spiritual disarray. For three months, Guru Rinpoche meditated in the Red Cliff Cave, ultimately leaving behind his kur-jey, or body imprint, on the rock—thus giving the site its sacred name, Kurjey.

During this meditative retreat, his consort Khandro Yeshe Tsogyal supported him with household responsibilities and ritual preparations. In the process, Guru Rinpoche pierced through the Vajra Piled Red Cave, shaking the palace of Lui Gyalpo Pemachen, the Naga King.

Recognizing the divine nature of the event, the Naga King humbly offered service. Guru Rinpoche requested the “Chhu Drowa Drenpa”, an elixir composed of nine kinds of sacred waters. On the seventh day, Guru instructed Khandro to collect the holy water at a sacred spot. At the destined moment, five Dakinis appeared alongside Khandro, affirming the spiritual magnitude of the event.

𝗧𝗵𝗲 𝗠𝗶𝗿𝗮𝗰𝘂𝗹𝗼𝘂𝘀 𝗦𝗵𝗼𝘄 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝗙𝗶𝗻𝗮𝗹 𝗦𝘂𝗯𝗷𝘂𝗴𝗮𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻

While Khandro was away, Guru Rinpoche transformed into his Eight Manifestations, performing a sacred dance that drew all local deities to witness. But Shelging Karpo, still defiant, stayed hidden. When Khandro returned with the golden container (Gahta) of holy water, the first rays of sunlight reflected off it, illuminating the land with rainbow light. The energy drew out Shelging Karpo, who emerged as a lion to observe.

In that instant, Guru Rinpoche transformed into a Garuda (Jachung) and seized Shelging Karpo, declaring,

“𝙔𝙤𝙪, 𝙎𝙝𝙚𝙡𝙜𝙞𝙣𝙜 𝙆𝙖𝙧𝙥𝙤, 𝙬𝙝𝙤 𝙨𝙩𝙤𝙡𝙚 𝙩𝙝𝙚 𝙡𝙞𝙛𝙚 𝙤𝙛 𝙆𝙞𝙣𝙜 𝙎𝙞𝙣𝙙𝙝𝙪 𝙍𝙖𝙟𝙖, 𝙖𝙧𝙚 𝙣𝙤𝙬 𝙞𝙣 𝙩𝙝𝙚 𝙘𝙡𝙖𝙬𝙨 𝙤𝙛 𝙂𝙪𝙧𝙪 𝙋𝙚𝙢𝙖 𝙅𝙪𝙣𝙜𝙣𝙚𝙮.”

Overwhelmed, Shelging Karpo surrendered. Guru’s intense spiritual force sealed his cave, leaving behind his clear footprints on the rock. Witnessed by assembled spirits and deities, the event marked a complete spiritual transformation of the region.

Guru and Khandro then rushed to Chagkhar Palace, where the dying king lay. Guru opened the king’s skin, breathed in the stolen life force, and poured the holy water into his mouth. The spider symbolizing the captured soul dissolved, and the king was instantly healed.

𝗦𝗽𝗶𝗿𝗶𝘁𝘂𝗮𝗹 𝗦𝗶𝗴𝗻𝗶𝗳𝗶𝗰𝗮𝗻𝗰𝗲 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝗣𝗶𝗹𝗴𝗿𝗶𝗺𝗮𝗴𝗲 𝗟𝗲𝗴𝗮𝗰𝘆

The importance of Kurjey Lhakhang extends beyond this miraculous event. Kunkhyen Longchen Rabjam once proclaimed,

“𝙀𝙫𝙚𝙣 𝙖 𝙨𝙞𝙣𝙜𝙡𝙚 𝙜𝙡𝙞𝙢𝙥𝙨𝙚 𝙤𝙛 𝙩𝙝𝙚 𝙗𝙤𝙙𝙮 𝙞𝙢𝙥𝙧𝙞𝙣𝙩 𝙤𝙛 𝙂𝙪𝙧𝙪 𝙍𝙞𝙣𝙥𝙤𝙘𝙝𝙚 𝙘𝙡𝙤𝙨𝙚𝙨 𝙩𝙝𝙚 𝙙𝙤𝙤𝙧 𝙩𝙤 𝙡𝙤𝙬𝙚𝙧 𝙧𝙚𝙗𝙞𝙧𝙩𝙝𝙨 𝙖𝙣𝙙 𝙥𝙡𝙖𝙘𝙚𝙨 𝙤𝙣𝙚 𝙤𝙣 𝙩𝙝𝙚 𝙥𝙖𝙩𝙝 𝙤𝙛 𝙡𝙞𝙗𝙚𝙧𝙖𝙩𝙞𝙤𝙣.”

It is said that even the grasses at Kurjey bear self-arising mantra syllables, a belief echoed in the words of Lama Drukpa Kunley, who humorously noted,

“𝙏𝙝𝙚𝙧𝙚’𝙨 𝙣𝙤 𝙥𝙡𝙖𝙘𝙚 𝙩𝙤 𝙧𝙚𝙡𝙞𝙚𝙫𝙚 𝙢𝙮𝙨𝙚𝙡𝙛 𝙝𝙚𝙧𝙚. 𝙀𝙫𝙚𝙣 𝙩𝙝𝙚 𝙜𝙧𝙖𝙨𝙨 𝙗𝙚𝙖𝙧𝙨 𝙩𝙝𝙚 𝙨𝙮𝙡𝙡𝙖𝙗𝙡𝙚 𝘼𝙃.”

Kurjey is considered the most sacred of Guru Rinpoche’s sites in Bumthang. Here, he subdued deities, healed a king, and left behind a tangible spiritual imprint for the benefit of all sentient beings. The temple built around the site stands as a monument of that legacy.

𝗝𝗼𝗵𝗻 𝗖𝗹𝗮𝘂𝗱𝗲 𝗪𝗵𝗶𝘁𝗲’𝘀 𝗗𝗲𝘀𝗰𝗿𝗶𝗽𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻 𝗼𝗳 𝗞𝘂𝗿𝗷𝗲𝘆.

In 1905, John Claude White, the British Political Officer in Sikkim, visited Kurjey Lhakhang and photographed its sacred interior, capturing a rare glimpse into one of Bhutan’s most revered temples. In his observations, he described Kurjey Lhakhang as:

“Kurjey Lakhang is one of the most sacred temples in Bhutan because it enshrines the body print of the great 8th century Buddhist sage Padmasambhava, known in Bhutan as Guru Rinpoche or ‘precious teacher’. He was an adept in Tantric Buddhism from the Swat Valley (now in Pakistan), and was instrumental in founding the first Tibetan Buddhist monastery at Samye (777–779 AD), south central Tibet. He had a huge impact on the religious future of Bhutan and the Nyingmapa religious school he founded is still a powerful force in central and eastern Bhutan.

It is said that he came to Bumthang in the mid-8th century and meditated, leaving a jey (imprint) of his kur (body) in the rock. This is preserved in a cave in the oldest of the three buildings which make up the temple-cum-monastery complex.” Refer the image taken by him.

Today, Kurjey Lhakhang not only houses the sacred body imprint but also serves as the final resting place of Bhutan’s first three Kings, adding to its historical reverence.

𝗞𝘂𝗿𝗷𝗲𝘆 𝗟𝗵𝗮𝗸𝗵𝗮𝗻𝗴 𝗰𝗼𝗺𝗽𝗹𝗲𝘅

The Kurjey Lhakhang complex is composed of three temples, each with its own rich spiritual story:

1. Guru Lhakhang, the oldest structure, originally built in 1652 by Chogyal Minjur Tempa, enshrines the sacred cave. Behind a majestic statue of Guru Rinpoche is the very rock where his body imprint remains. Crawling through the narrow passage below, believed to cleanse one’s sins, I was reminded of the deep symbolism of humility and rebirth. The upper sanctum houses the eight manifestations of the Guru, alongside statues of Buddhas from the past, present, and future.

2. Sampa Lhundrup Lhakhang, constructed in 1900 by Gongsa Ugyen Wangchuck, Bhutan’s first King, holds a towering statue of Guru Rinpoche in his peaceful form. Murals of guardian deities and cosmic symbols grace the walls, telling timeless stories of protection and awakening.

3. The most recent addition, Ka-Gong-Phur-Sum Lhakhang, was built in 1984 under the vision of Her Majesty Ashi Kesang Choden Wangchuck and guidance of Dilgo Khyentse Rinpoche. It is a tantric sanctuary representing the three cycles of teachings—Kagye, Gongdue, and Phurpa. A 34-foot statue of Palchen Heruka, surrounded by intricate depictions of Yidams and guardians, rises across three levels—a breathtaking embodiment of the Vajrayana path.

Outside the temples stands a tall cypress tree, believed to have grown from Guru Rinpoche’s walking staff. This tree, protected by the deity Shelging Karpo, is a living symbol of the Guru’s enduring presence in Bhutan. The tree is 1201 years old.

Not far above the temple is the sacred Kurjey Drupchhu—a spring that Guru Rinpoche is said to have summoned with his spiritual power. Pilgrims drink from it for blessings, healing, and inner purification.

Every year, the temple comes alive during the Kurjey Tshechu, held on the 10th day of the 5th Bhutanese month. It is a celebration of the Guru’s birth and legacy, with sacred mask dances and the unfurling of the grand Guru Thongdroel. Another sacred ritual, the Kagye Drubchen, is held annually in the 4th month—an intensive practice of the eight Heruka deities, deeply rooted in Bhutan’s tantric tradition.

Walking through Kurjey, I was filled with awe and gratitude. The quiet chants, the flicker of butter lamps, the scent of incense, and the weight of centuries of devotion made it more than a visit—it was a spiritual homecoming. Preformed Guru Rinpoche Mantra Mudra and connected to the sacred place.

If you ever journey to Bumthang, make time for Kurjey. Even the winds seem to whisper mantras here, and every stone tells a sacred story.

𝐓𝐡𝐞 𝐭𝐫𝐢𝐮𝐦𝐯𝐢𝐫𝐚𝐭𝐞 𝐨𝐟 𝐌𝐚 𝐙𝐚𝐚 𝐃𝐚𝐦 𝐒𝐮𝐦 (𝐄𝐤𝐚𝐣𝐚𝐭𝐢, 𝐑𝐚𝐡𝐮𝐥𝐚, 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐃𝐚𝐦𝐜𝐡𝐞𝐧 𝐃𝐨𝐫𝐣𝐞 𝐋𝐡𝐞𝐩𝐚).

༄།། ཧཱུྃ་བྷྱོཿ ཡེ་ཤེས་མགོན་པོ་བདུན་རྫོགས་ལྷ་མོར་བཅས།།

Hung Bhyo! To the assembly of the seven fully perfected wisdom-protecting deities, together with the goddess,

སོ་སོའི་ཐུགས་དང་མཐུན་པའི་གཏོར་མ་དང་།།
We offer torma in accordance with each of your enlightened minds and intentions.

མཁོ་རྒུའི་འདོད་ཡོན་རྒྱ་མཚོའི་བཀུར་བ་པོར།།
All desired offerings and necessities are respectfully presented, as vast as the ocean.

བྱང་ཆུབ་བར་དུ་སྲུང་སྐྱོབ་མི་གཡེལ་བར།།
Protect and guard us unfailingly until the attainment of complete enlightenment.

སྤྱི་སྒོས་བསྟན་སྲུང་བསྟན་འཛིན་འདས་པ་སྤེལ།།
Spread and expand the teachings of the Buddha universally, beyond all boundaries.

མི་མཐུན་ཀུན་ཞི་མཐུན་རྐྱེན་རྟེན་འབྲེལ་སྒྲིགས།།
May all disharmony be pacified and conducive interdependent conditions arise.

ཁམས་གསུམ་དབང་བསྡུས་གནོད་བྱེད་དགྲ་བགེགས་སྒྲོལ།།
Subdue and liberate the obstructing forces and harmful enemies of the three realms.

གཞི་བྱེས་ཀུན་ཏུ་བཀྲ་ཤིས་བདེ་ལེགས་མཛོད།།
May all causes and foundations be filled with auspiciousness and well-being.

ཧཱུྃ་ལས་དང་ཡེ་ཤེས་ཚོགས་ཀྱི་རྫེ་མོ་ནི།།
From the syllable Hung arises the principal goddess, the embodiment of enlightened activity and wisdom,

ཁྲག་འཐུང་འབར་མ་རལ་གཅིག་ཆེན་མོ་དང༌།།
The fierce, blood-drinking blazing goddess—Ekajati, the One-Tressed Mother,

སྤྲུལ་པའི་གཟའ་མཆོག་ཡང་སྤྲུལ་ཕོ་ཉ་བརྒྱད།།
The supreme emanated planetary deity—Rahula—and his eight fierce emanated warriors,

སྐྱེས་མཆོ་འབར་བ་མཆེད་དང་སྐུ་འཁོར་བཅས།།
Kyechok Barwa, his siblings, and their entire retinue,

འདིར་གཤེགས་ཕྱི་ནང་གསང་བའི་མཆོད་བཞེས་ལ།།
Please come here and accept these outer, inner, and secret offerings.

འདོད་པའི་དོན་དགོངས་འཕྲིན་ལས་རྫོགས་པར་མཛོད།།
May all aspirations and activities be fulfilled and perfected in accordance with the enlightened intent.

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Signed: The 17th Thangtong Rinpoche
Date: 7-3-2150 (Tibetan calendar)

Translated by: Phub Dorji Wang

𝒫𝒽𝓊𝒷 𝒟ℴ𝓇𝒿𝒾 𝒲𝒶𝓃ℊ

༈ བྱང་ཆུབ་སེམས་མཆོག་རིན་པོ་ཆེ། །

𝔹𝕠𝕕𝕙𝕚𝕔𝕚𝕥𝕥𝕒, 𝕡𝕣𝕖𝕔𝕚𝕠𝕦𝕤 𝕒𝕟𝕕 𝕤𝕦𝕓𝕝𝕚𝕞𝕖;

མ་སྐྱེས་པ་རྣམས་སྐྱེས་པ་དང༌། །

𝕄𝕒𝕪 𝕚𝕥 𝕒𝕣𝕚𝕤𝕖 𝕚𝕟 𝕥𝕙𝕠𝕤𝕖 𝕚𝕟 𝕨𝕙𝕠𝕞 𝕚𝕥 𝕙𝕒𝕤 𝕟𝕠𝕥 𝕒𝕣𝕚𝕤𝕖𝕟;

སྐྱེས་པ་ཉམས་པ་མེད་པ་ཡང༌། །

𝕄𝕒𝕪 𝕚𝕥 𝕟𝕖𝕧𝕖𝕣 𝕕𝕖𝕔𝕝𝕚𝕟𝕖 𝕨𝕙𝕖𝕣𝕖 𝕚𝕥 𝕙𝕒𝕤 𝕒𝕣𝕚𝕤𝕖𝕟; གོང་ནས་གོང་དུ་འཕེལ་བར་ཤོག །

𝕄𝕒𝕪 𝕚𝕥 𝕘𝕠 𝕠𝕟 𝕚𝕟𝕔𝕣𝕖𝕒𝕤𝕚𝕟𝕘, 𝕗𝕦𝕣𝕥𝕙𝕖𝕣 𝕒𝕟𝕕 𝕗𝕦𝕣𝕥𝕙𝕖𝕣!