During my visit (2nd April) to Kurjey Lhakhang in Bumthang, I was struck by the profound sense of timeless sanctity that envelops the entire valley. Revered as one of Bhutan’s most sacred sites, Kurjey is not only the first spiritual foundation laid by Guru Rinpoche in Bumthang but also a living testament to his miraculous deeds. Its historical roots trace back to the Iron Tiger Year, 810 AD, when the site became the theatre of Guru Rinpoche’s subjugation of powerful local deities and the restoration of King Sindhu Raja’s life.
𝗛𝗶𝘀𝘁𝗼𝗿𝗶𝗰𝗮𝗹 𝗢𝗿𝗶𝗴𝗶𝗻𝘀: 𝗧𝗵𝗲 𝗖𝗼𝗻𝗳𝗹𝗶𝗰𝘁 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝗗𝗶𝘃𝗶𝗻𝗲 𝗜𝗻𝘁𝗲𝗿𝘃𝗲𝗻𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻
According to oral history, King Sindhu Raja of Bumthang had engaged in a dispute with a southern king named Naochhe or “Big Nose.” Before sending his son, Taklamebar, and the army into battle, Sindhu Raja fervently prayed to local deities for protection. Tragically, Taklamebar was slain, and the enraged king blamed the local protectors for the loss.
His anger turned especially toward Shelging Karpo, the chief local deity. In retaliation, he ordered the destruction of sacred sites, provoking Shelging Karpo to seize the king’s life force. The king grew severely ill, and despite numerous attempts by astrologers and healers, no cure could be found. One of his ministers then advised inviting Guru Padmasambhava, already renowned across the Himalayas for his spiritual prowess.
𝗔𝗿𝗿𝗶𝘃𝗮𝗹 𝗼𝗳 𝗚𝘂𝗿𝘂 𝗥𝗶𝗻𝗽𝗼𝗰𝗵𝗲 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗦𝘂𝗯𝗷𝘂𝗴𝗮𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻 𝗼𝗳 𝗦𝗵𝗲𝗹𝗴𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗞𝗮𝗿𝗽𝗼
Guru Rinpoche travelled from Nepal, entering Bhutan through Nabji-Korphu in Trongsa. Upon reaching Bumthang, he discovered the depth of spiritual disarray. For three months, Guru Rinpoche meditated in the Red Cliff Cave, ultimately leaving behind his kur-jey, or body imprint, on the rock—thus giving the site its sacred name, Kurjey.
During this meditative retreat, his consort Khandro Yeshe Tsogyal supported him with household responsibilities and ritual preparations. In the process, Guru Rinpoche pierced through the Vajra Piled Red Cave, shaking the palace of Lui Gyalpo Pemachen, the Naga King.
Recognizing the divine nature of the event, the Naga King humbly offered service. Guru Rinpoche requested the “Chhu Drowa Drenpa”, an elixir composed of nine kinds of sacred waters. On the seventh day, Guru instructed Khandro to collect the holy water at a sacred spot. At the destined moment, five Dakinis appeared alongside Khandro, affirming the spiritual magnitude of the event.
𝗧𝗵𝗲 𝗠𝗶𝗿𝗮𝗰𝘂𝗹𝗼𝘂𝘀 𝗦𝗵𝗼𝘄 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝗙𝗶𝗻𝗮𝗹 𝗦𝘂𝗯𝗷𝘂𝗴𝗮𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻
While Khandro was away, Guru Rinpoche transformed into his Eight Manifestations, performing a sacred dance that drew all local deities to witness. But Shelging Karpo, still defiant, stayed hidden. When Khandro returned with the golden container (Gahta) of holy water, the first rays of sunlight reflected off it, illuminating the land with rainbow light. The energy drew out Shelging Karpo, who emerged as a lion to observe.
In that instant, Guru Rinpoche transformed into a Garuda (Jachung) and seized Shelging Karpo, declaring,
“𝙔𝙤𝙪, 𝙎𝙝𝙚𝙡𝙜𝙞𝙣𝙜 𝙆𝙖𝙧𝙥𝙤, 𝙬𝙝𝙤 𝙨𝙩𝙤𝙡𝙚 𝙩𝙝𝙚 𝙡𝙞𝙛𝙚 𝙤𝙛 𝙆𝙞𝙣𝙜 𝙎𝙞𝙣𝙙𝙝𝙪 𝙍𝙖𝙟𝙖, 𝙖𝙧𝙚 𝙣𝙤𝙬 𝙞𝙣 𝙩𝙝𝙚 𝙘𝙡𝙖𝙬𝙨 𝙤𝙛 𝙂𝙪𝙧𝙪 𝙋𝙚𝙢𝙖 𝙅𝙪𝙣𝙜𝙣𝙚𝙮.”
Overwhelmed, Shelging Karpo surrendered. Guru’s intense spiritual force sealed his cave, leaving behind his clear footprints on the rock. Witnessed by assembled spirits and deities, the event marked a complete spiritual transformation of the region.
Guru and Khandro then rushed to Chagkhar Palace, where the dying king lay. Guru opened the king’s skin, breathed in the stolen life force, and poured the holy water into his mouth. The spider symbolizing the captured soul dissolved, and the king was instantly healed.
𝗦𝗽𝗶𝗿𝗶𝘁𝘂𝗮𝗹 𝗦𝗶𝗴𝗻𝗶𝗳𝗶𝗰𝗮𝗻𝗰𝗲 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝗣𝗶𝗹𝗴𝗿𝗶𝗺𝗮𝗴𝗲 𝗟𝗲𝗴𝗮𝗰𝘆
The importance of Kurjey Lhakhang extends beyond this miraculous event. Kunkhyen Longchen Rabjam once proclaimed,
“𝙀𝙫𝙚𝙣 𝙖 𝙨𝙞𝙣𝙜𝙡𝙚 𝙜𝙡𝙞𝙢𝙥𝙨𝙚 𝙤𝙛 𝙩𝙝𝙚 𝙗𝙤𝙙𝙮 𝙞𝙢𝙥𝙧𝙞𝙣𝙩 𝙤𝙛 𝙂𝙪𝙧𝙪 𝙍𝙞𝙣𝙥𝙤𝙘𝙝𝙚 𝙘𝙡𝙤𝙨𝙚𝙨 𝙩𝙝𝙚 𝙙𝙤𝙤𝙧 𝙩𝙤 𝙡𝙤𝙬𝙚𝙧 𝙧𝙚𝙗𝙞𝙧𝙩𝙝𝙨 𝙖𝙣𝙙 𝙥𝙡𝙖𝙘𝙚𝙨 𝙤𝙣𝙚 𝙤𝙣 𝙩𝙝𝙚 𝙥𝙖𝙩𝙝 𝙤𝙛 𝙡𝙞𝙗𝙚𝙧𝙖𝙩𝙞𝙤𝙣.”
It is said that even the grasses at Kurjey bear self-arising mantra syllables, a belief echoed in the words of Lama Drukpa Kunley, who humorously noted,
“𝙏𝙝𝙚𝙧𝙚’𝙨 𝙣𝙤 𝙥𝙡𝙖𝙘𝙚 𝙩𝙤 𝙧𝙚𝙡𝙞𝙚𝙫𝙚 𝙢𝙮𝙨𝙚𝙡𝙛 𝙝𝙚𝙧𝙚. 𝙀𝙫𝙚𝙣 𝙩𝙝𝙚 𝙜𝙧𝙖𝙨𝙨 𝙗𝙚𝙖𝙧𝙨 𝙩𝙝𝙚 𝙨𝙮𝙡𝙡𝙖𝙗𝙡𝙚 𝘼𝙃.”
Kurjey is considered the most sacred of Guru Rinpoche’s sites in Bumthang. Here, he subdued deities, healed a king, and left behind a tangible spiritual imprint for the benefit of all sentient beings. The temple built around the site stands as a monument of that legacy.
𝗝𝗼𝗵𝗻 𝗖𝗹𝗮𝘂𝗱𝗲 𝗪𝗵𝗶𝘁𝗲’𝘀 𝗗𝗲𝘀𝗰𝗿𝗶𝗽𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻 𝗼𝗳 𝗞𝘂𝗿𝗷𝗲𝘆.
In 1905, John Claude White, the British Political Officer in Sikkim, visited Kurjey Lhakhang and photographed its sacred interior, capturing a rare glimpse into one of Bhutan’s most revered temples. In his observations, he described Kurjey Lhakhang as:
“Kurjey Lakhang is one of the most sacred temples in Bhutan because it enshrines the body print of the great 8th century Buddhist sage Padmasambhava, known in Bhutan as Guru Rinpoche or ‘precious teacher’. He was an adept in Tantric Buddhism from the Swat Valley (now in Pakistan), and was instrumental in founding the first Tibetan Buddhist monastery at Samye (777–779 AD), south central Tibet. He had a huge impact on the religious future of Bhutan and the Nyingmapa religious school he founded is still a powerful force in central and eastern Bhutan.
It is said that he came to Bumthang in the mid-8th century and meditated, leaving a jey (imprint) of his kur (body) in the rock. This is preserved in a cave in the oldest of the three buildings which make up the temple-cum-monastery complex.” Refer the image taken by him.
Today, Kurjey Lhakhang not only houses the sacred body imprint but also serves as the final resting place of Bhutan’s first three Kings, adding to its historical reverence.
𝗞𝘂𝗿𝗷𝗲𝘆 𝗟𝗵𝗮𝗸𝗵𝗮𝗻𝗴 𝗰𝗼𝗺𝗽𝗹𝗲𝘅
The Kurjey Lhakhang complex is composed of three temples, each with its own rich spiritual story:
1. Guru Lhakhang, the oldest structure, originally built in 1652 by Chogyal Minjur Tempa, enshrines the sacred cave. Behind a majestic statue of Guru Rinpoche is the very rock where his body imprint remains. Crawling through the narrow passage below, believed to cleanse one’s sins, I was reminded of the deep symbolism of humility and rebirth. The upper sanctum houses the eight manifestations of the Guru, alongside statues of Buddhas from the past, present, and future.
2. Sampa Lhundrup Lhakhang, constructed in 1900 by Gongsa Ugyen Wangchuck, Bhutan’s first King, holds a towering statue of Guru Rinpoche in his peaceful form. Murals of guardian deities and cosmic symbols grace the walls, telling timeless stories of protection and awakening.
3. The most recent addition, Ka-Gong-Phur-Sum Lhakhang, was built in 1984 under the vision of Her Majesty Ashi Kesang Choden Wangchuck and guidance of Dilgo Khyentse Rinpoche. It is a tantric sanctuary representing the three cycles of teachings—Kagye, Gongdue, and Phurpa. A 34-foot statue of Palchen Heruka, surrounded by intricate depictions of Yidams and guardians, rises across three levels—a breathtaking embodiment of the Vajrayana path.
Outside the temples stands a tall cypress tree, believed to have grown from Guru Rinpoche’s walking staff. This tree, protected by the deity Shelging Karpo, is a living symbol of the Guru’s enduring presence in Bhutan. The tree is 1201 years old.
Not far above the temple is the sacred Kurjey Drupchhu—a spring that Guru Rinpoche is said to have summoned with his spiritual power. Pilgrims drink from it for blessings, healing, and inner purification.
Every year, the temple comes alive during the Kurjey Tshechu, held on the 10th day of the 5th Bhutanese month. It is a celebration of the Guru’s birth and legacy, with sacred mask dances and the unfurling of the grand Guru Thongdroel. Another sacred ritual, the Kagye Drubchen, is held annually in the 4th month—an intensive practice of the eight Heruka deities, deeply rooted in Bhutan’s tantric tradition.
Walking through Kurjey, I was filled with awe and gratitude. The quiet chants, the flicker of butter lamps, the scent of incense, and the weight of centuries of devotion made it more than a visit—it was a spiritual homecoming. Preformed Guru Rinpoche Mantra Mudra and connected to the sacred place.
If you ever journey to Bumthang, make time for Kurjey. Even the winds seem to whisper mantras here, and every stone tells a sacred story.
